By William Flood
There was no doubt in my mind that I had to craft a piece on what nearly defined the vintage experience for me. It’s an authentic diner, known simply as Frank’s Diner in Kenosha, Wisconsin — and what a way to begin my lifetime adventure!
Frank’s started life in 1926 as a lunch cart, literally horse-drawn to its location. Enveloped in the current structure is a vintage Jerry O’Mahoney diner with 18 stools at the counter and about twice as much seating at booths in an adjoining dining area. While it has been renovated over the years to accommodate current needs, stepping into this diner is like walking back 80 years in time. You’ll immediately notice the wood barrel ceiling, original tile, and original woodwork throughout. This is a really small, intimate place (for both diners and cooks) that portrays – in true fashion – what a diner was like in its original form.
I discovered Frank’s in 2004 by way of Jane and Michael Stern’s celebrated book, Road Food. Back then, the diner was owned by Lynn Groleau and Chris Schwartz. Franks was profiled by Guy Fieri on the fourth episode of Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives in 2007. But, long before Triple D aired, Frank’s was already immensely popular with both locals and travelers. It’s still pretty common to have a line of people standing patiently waiting for an open booth or a stool at the counter. Franks changed hands around 2010, and new owners Kevin Ervin and Julie Rittmiller continue to host packed houses even on my last visit just before 7 AM the day after Christmas.
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This is the kind of place that has lifetime fans – and they’re not just locals. A guest with whom I had some great holiday conversation noted that, to the astonishment of his wife, he regularly travels over a half-hour north from the Chicago suburbs to have breakfast there.
A lot of things make Frank’s a gem – the vintage building, the people running it (more about that later), and the menu. The shining star of that menu, in a lot of people’s opinion, is a concoction called the “garbage plate.” It’s a massive scrambled egg diner fantasy with five eggs, green peppers, hash browns, onions, and your choice of meats and other vegetables blended and grilled the way that can only be done on a flattop. It’s as good as it gets in diner breakfasts, and I have yet to find anything that would rival it! Be forewarned, unless you are a BIG eater, a whole garbage plate is more than enough for two people. Fortunately, if you are alone – and not in the NFL – you can order a half (3 egg) portion.
As far as the people go, the 2004 owners Groleau and Schwartz were quite the characters. If you catch a video clip, you can get a sense of their comical irreverence in the interactions with Guy Fieri. In my early visits, I was amazed how they could orchestrate grilling 18 made-to-order garbage plates, tease the locals, make a Mickey Mouse pancake, all while squeezing past each other through an impossibly small kitchen without skipping a beat. Ervin and Rittmiller spun a bit of a different vibe, making the place feel like sitting down in a family kitchen. Patrons even pour coffee for each other.
Throughout are cheeky slogans that make diner aficionados know they are where they should be. Signs, notes, and even their T-shirts carry quips like “Order What You Want; Eat What You Get” and “Be Nice or Leave”. It removes any pretense and you’ll feel like a regular the first time you walk in the door.
While Triple D’s fourth episode is a memory, Frank’s is still welcoming people in the same fine fashion that brought them Food Network fame. You’ll still find customers trying to get down that last bite of garbage plate, neighbors asking to refill your cup, and cooks continuing to figure out how to squeeze through that impossibly narrow kitchen!
So, here’s to ordering what you want and eating what you get!
Frank’s Diner
508-58th Street
Kenosha WI 53140
262-657-1017
